
You can buy perfectly delicious pasta these days. You can buy fresh, frozen, dried, gluten free, wholemeal and who knows what else. We are definitely spoilt for choice these days. In Australia it is embarrassingly rare that restaurants craft their own pasta by hand. In Italy it is rare to find a trattoria that
doesn't. Even the pasta in the smallest hole in the wall will usually be freshly hand made. In the face of this pasta drought, a great friend of my mother, the Lovely Julia Reed, invited me over to her place for a lesson in Italian cooking (plus an excuse to drag out the pasta maker). It was the
best day, lightly dusted with flour from head to toe, I emerged from Julia's home with pillowy gnocchi and lightly straw coloured, delicate linguine. It really wasn't that hard, and the results were improved a thousand fold from store bought San Remo.
Im not usually a huge fan of gnocchi. I find it heavy and a touch too doughy for my liking, it is rare that I am able to get through a whole bowl without feeling like i've been stuffed with marshmallows. This gnocchi was something completely different. I didn't even have to chew it, it melted in my mouth within seconds, leaving a slight hint of nutmeg in it's wake.

The linguine was so wafer thin that when dried, it snapped with the slightest touch (resulting in half of mine snapping onto the floor, tear.) We laid it as a bed for Osso Bucco and it worked very well indeed to sop up the juices.
First for the linguine.
Julia, a huge wholemeal flour fan - and rightfully so, since its a winner in anything else - thought plain flour works best when making pasta, as wholemeal can sometimes be too heavy. 100g of flour and 1 egg for every serving. Place the eggs in the food processor and gradually add the flour until a yellow, heavy dough forms. You can also use a clean benchtop, pile up the flour and gradually mix in the eggs by hand but it is much easier, and cleaner, to use a processor. The dough will come together - don't worry if it feels really lumpy or dry, once you kneed it it will become smooth. Kneed the dough on a lightly floured bench top until it come together into a cohesive ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and allow to rest for 30 minutes to allow the glutens to relax, if you don't rest the dough the pasta will be tough.

You can roll out the dough by hand but it is
much easier to use a pasta machine with a handle. They will usually come with different attachments so you can cut it into different pasta sizes and shapes. Divide the dough into three balls, so it is easier to manage, flatten the dough so it fits through the rollers of your pasta machine. on setting 1, begin to feed it through with one hand while turning the handle with the other. Fold the dough in half on itself and feed it through again a few times until it is smooth and a consistent thickness. Now change the setting one notch smaller and repeat until you have worked your way down to the second last setting (8 on our machine).

Cut the length of pasta in half, it will be too hard to handle when it is too long, and too hard to eat! Attach the linguine attachment and gently feed the pasta ribbon through so it emerges from the other end in thin ribbons. If you are not cooking the pasta immediately, drape it over a broom handle to dry and make sure the dog doesn't get to it. To cook, dunk the pasta in a big pot of salted, boiling water for 2-3 minutes or until al dente.

Next, to the gnocchi.
Gnocchi is rather difficult as it is hard to find the balance between rubbery and solvent. We used Jamie Oliver's recipe and it was spectacular.
6 medium potatoes
Olive oil
Nutmeg, grated
1/2 - 1 teaspoon salt
Good grind of pepper
1 egg yolk
1-2 handfuls of plain flour
Pre-heat the oven to 220 deg C.
Rub the cleaned potatoes with olive oil, prick them all over with a fork and lay them on a roasting tray. Place in the oven for 1 hour until they are crispy on the outside and fluffy and soft on the inside. Allow to cool for a few minutes, then cut them in half, scoop out the fluffy insides and place it in a sieve or a ricer.
Press the potato through the sieve into a large bowl so that it looks like 'grated' potato.
Add the nutmeg, salt, pepper and egg yolk to the sieved potato. Add enough flour to bind the mixture, however the more flour you add the tougher the gnocchi will be. Mix together and knead with your hands until you have a dry, doughy consistency. Add more flour if too wet, and water if too dry.
Divide the dough into three pieces and roll each piece out on a floured surface into long tubes the thickness of a sausage.
Cut each of the tubes into 2.5 cm pieces, then press the tines of a fork into both sides of the gnocchi to give the characteristic ribbed marking.

Place them on a a plate or tray sprinkled liberally with flour, and allow to sit in the fridge for about 20 minutes to set. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Drop the gnocchi into the water in batches. As soon as the gnocchi float to the surface of the water they are ready to serve. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and toss with gorgonzola sauce.